BARCELONA
HISTORY
Barcelona has emerged from a spotty history. With Castilian kings pumping
cannonballs over the city walls and anarchists disagreeing on which
shoulder to hang their rifles, the city shrank in the shadow of greater
cities and powers for centuries.
Though founded around 230 BC, likely by the Carthaginians, and invaded
by the Visigoths and then the Muslims, the history of the city, in a
sense, only truly began after armies from what is now France pushed
back the Muslims in 801 AD. At the time, the plains and mountains to
the northwest and north of Barcelona were populated by the people who
by then could be identified as 'Catalans' (although surviving documentary
references to the term only date to the 10th century). Catalan's closest
linguistic relative today is the langue d'oc, the old language of southern
France.
In the 12th century, Catalunya grew rich on pickings from the fall of
the Muslim caliphate of Córdoba. The Catalans managed to keep
their creative forces alight through to the 14th century, when Barcelona
ruled a mini-empire including Sicily, Malta, Sardinia, Valencia, the
Balearics, the French regions of Rousillon and Cerdagne and parts of
Greece. But by the 15th century, devastated by the plague, spectacular
bank crashes, and the Genoese squeezing their markets, the empire ran
out of steam. While the Catalans may have hoped that union with the
kingdom of Castile would pump cash back into the coffers and vitality
onto the streets, heirs to the crowns of Castile and Aragón were
more interested in juicing Catalunya to finance their own imperial ambitions.
A 1462 rebellion against King Joan II ended in a siege in 1473 that
devastated the city. Barcelona was more or less annexed into the Castilian
state, but was excluded from the plundering of the Americas that brought
fantastic riches to 16th-century Castile. By now, the peasants had started
to revolt. Disaffected Catalans resorted to arms a number of times,
and the last revolt, during the War of the Spanish Succession, saw Catalunya
siding with Britain and Austria against Felipe V, the French contender
for the Spanish throne. That was their undoing. Barcelona fell in 1714
after another shocking siege, and as well as banning the Catalan language,
Felipe built a huge fort, the Ciutadella, to watch over his ungrateful
subjects in town.
After 1778 Catalunya was permitted to trade with America, and the region's
fortunes gradually turned around. Spain's first industrial revolution,
based on cotton, was launched there, and other industries based on wine,
cork and iron also developed. By the 1830s, the European Romantic movement
virtually rescued Catalan culture and language just as it was in danger
of disappearing. The Catalan Renaixença, or Renaissance, was
a crusade led by poets and writers to popularise the people's language.
A fervent nationalist movement sprang up around the same time, and was
embraced by all parties of the political spectrum.
The decades around the turn of the century were a fast ride, with anarchists,
Republicans, bourgeois regionalists, gangsters, police terrorists, political
gunmen called pistoleros and centrists in Madrid all clamouring for
a slice of the action. This followed an explosion in Barcelona's population
- from around 115,000 in 1800 to more than half a million by 1900, then
over a million by 1930 - as workers flocked in for industrial jobs.
As many as 80% of the city's workers embraced the anarchist CNT by the
end of WWI, and industrial relations hit an all-time low during a wave
of strikes in 1919-20 when employers hired assassins to kill union leaders.
Within days of Spain's Second Republic forming in 1931, Catalan nationalists
declared a republic within an 'Iberian Federation'. Catalunya briefly
gained genuine autonomy after the leftist Popular Front won the February
1936 Spanish general election, and for nearly a year revolutionary anarchists
and the POUM (the Workers Marxist Unification Party) ran the town. Get
10 anarchists in a room, though, and you'll have 11 political opinions;
in May 1937 infighting between communists, anarchists and the POUM broke
out into street fighting for three days, killing at least 1500 people.
The Republican effort across Spain was troubled by similar infighting,
which destroyed any chance they may have had of defeating Franco's fascist
militia. Barcelona, the last stronghold of the Republicans, fell to
Franco's forces in January 1939, and the war ended a few months later.
Rather than submitting to Franco, thousands of Catalans fled across
the border to France, Andorra and farther afield.
Franco wasted no time in banning Catalan and flooding the region with
impoverished immigrants from Andalucía in the vain hope that
the pesky Catalans, with their continual movements for independence,
would be swamped. But the plan soured somewhat when the migrants' children
and grandchildren turned out to be more Catalan than the Catalans. Franco
even banned one of the Catalans' joyful expressions of national unity,
the sardana, a public circle dance.
But they'd barely turned the last sods on El Supremo's grave when Catalunya
burst out again in an effort to recreate itself as a nation. Catalan
was revived with a vengeance, the Generalitat, or local parliament,
was reinstated, and today, people gather all over town several times
a week to dance the sardana. While there's still talk of independence,
it remains just that - talk. Barcelona is its country's most happening
town, and seems set to stay that way.